StyleSpy with Katrina Szish

Mineral make-up: why the hype?  I never understood it, and it wasn't for lack of trying.  It seemed to work wonders on everyone else yet always -- always -- made me break out.  I thought it was meant for sensitive skin, so why didn't it work on mine?

I was recently discussing my plight with an aesthetician at NYC's Smooth Synergy Day Spa (run don't walk for amazing facials).  She took one look at me and said: "Jane Iredale." 

Jane Iredale is the creator of a comprehensive -- and celeb-beloved -- line of mineral make-up aptly called Jane Iredale: The Skin Care Make-up.

Turns out Iredale got into the skincare business by accident.  Her first career was in the entertainment industry.  She worked as a casting director for film and television and eventually formed her own production company.  After snagging an Emmy, she moved on to theater where she received a Tony nomination.  Having spent years working with luminous luminaries such as Sarah Jessica Parker, Lauren Hutton and Susan Sarandon, Iredale realized that a clear complexion can make or break both careers and self-confidence.  In 1994, The Skin Care Make-up collection was born.

Now, back to me: I couldn't imagine how Jane Iredale cosmetics could be any different from the others I've tried, so I did lots of Googling and kept coming across one ingredient found in many mineral make-ups described as "possibly irritating" for certain skin types.  The ingredient is bismuth oxychloride, and the certain skin type seemed to be mine. 

I quickly checked the Jane Iredale ingredient list, and astonishingly bismuth oxychloride was nowhere to be found.  I promptly began to experiment.  One day down and no breakouts, not to mention flawless coverage (even for TV!) and an amazing color range.  Jump to two months later and more of the same: perfection.  I did a happy dance or two.  (My personal obsession is the liquid mineral foundation, below...the appearance reminds me of Dippin' Dots ice cream). 

But, rather than blame it all on the bismuth and self-diagnose via the internet (bad!), I sought the expertise of living, breathing dermatologists with reputations for giving women (many with A-list names) flawless, healthy skin.  I asked them what was so great about mineral make-up as well as what might make it irritating.

My first call was to Dr. Doris Day, New York City's It-Girl when it comes to seriously perfect skin (her client roster includes myriad bold-faced beauties).  Like her skincare record, her logic is flawless: "Most mineral makeup contains only natural fragrances, colors and preservatives which, even though they are natural, can cause irritation or allergic reaction in some people. 'Mineral make-up' is not a brand; it is a general group of a type of product, and some brands are better than others."  Day also pointed out that the primary ingredients in nearly all mineral make-ups, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, are not only "physical protectors against sun exposure [but also] very effective and the risk of reaction to them is non-existent."

Ok, cross those do-good ingredients off the bad list...

Next stop, Dr. Howard L. Brooks, the Medical Director of SKIN: Cosmetic Dermatology of Georgetown (and the man on speed-dial for many of Washington DC's political elite).  Dr. Brooks got straight to the bismuth oxychloride topic (which now I affectionately refer to as B-O):  "The leading cause of allergy or sensitivity to mineral makeup is bismuth oxychloride, which is a naturally occurring metal that most of us will not come in contact with on a daily basis.  However, it is found in the majority of mineral makeups, because it provides a "glow" or"shine" to the skin."

Ha!  Gotcha, B-O!

Finally, I checked in with rock star dermatologist (seriously -- rock stars go to him, not to mention their supermodel girlfriends), Dr. Bobby Buka.  According to Buka: "Nearly all commercially available mineral make-ups these days are non-comedogenic, that is, they won’t cause acne in most patients. Neverthess, anytime you occlude hair follicles of the face (from prolonged use or too frequent application), white heads and black heads can result."

Prolonged use?  Too-frequent application?  That's me!!

But, Buka isn't ready to blame B-O: "Bismuth oxychloride gives make-up the ability to impart a slight shimmer on the face. This “pearlizing agent” is a mineral byproduct of copper processing and is oftentimes used as a thickening agent in make-up. Because of the chloride component of this ingredient, some experts have proposed that a rare form of acne, called chloracne, may result. It’s a stretch in my opinion, because the amount of chloride exposure typically required to cause chloracne is 1000s times what any make-up might contain. Chloracne is seen in laboratory workers and metallurgists exposed to massive chloride levels, and has yet to ever be reported from casual cosmetic use."

Hmmm.  I don't know that I consider my relationship to cosmetics "casual," considering I am spackled for TV nearly every day, all day, but then again I can't say that I spend any time in a lab, nor am I a metallurgist. 

The jury is still out on B-O, but the bottom line is there's something about Jane Iredale's make-up that trumps and transcends all others I've tried. 

And, full-disclosure:  I fell in love with Jane Iredale's products before getting the scoop that the divine Mrs. Victoria Beckham is also obsessed.

Clearly, I am not biased.  Just hooked...